Monday, July 9, 2012

Teaching in Korea - Day 14



Today was the first day in two weeks that we had to actually sleep in and guess what? I couldn't even sleep in!  I was wide awake at 6 am....great!

Part of the reason for why I was so wide-eyed was because of pure excitement to be back in the classroom.  Today's mission was to teach fifty Korean high school students everything they would need to know about the wonderful city of Detroit in 25 minutes.  I think all of the teachers in the group...even the most veteran of us...were extremely anxious about our lessons.  We knew literally nothing about the school, not even the name of the school.  It was all very top secret and that put us on edge.  I mean, how were we supposed to teach a lesson when we didn't know how much English the kids spoke, if they spoke any English at all, or how in depth our lessons should be.  It didn't matter though.  We all proved to be experts at our profession and did amazing!

The school, Goyang Foreign Language School, is a private school inside Seoul, that focuses on teaching students...well, foreign languages like English, Spanish, Japanese and Chinese.  It is also a Christian based school and possibly a missionary although we were never given an official answer to that.  The school is expensive.  Think of Hogwarts, but for languages instead of magic.  The students pay close to $30,000 a year to live in dorms and attend classes from 7am until, get this...11pm!!! Some of the staff members actually live on campus as well.  I'm telling you, its just like Hogwarts! The 7-11 work schedule is intense, but is typical of most Korean schools.  After classes the students then return to their dorms to study until 1,2 or 3 am.  They often have learned to function on only 4-5 hours of sleep a day.  Even on vacations they are studying and preparing for their exams.  Super intense.  I don't know if I could handle teaching that many hours of the day, but who am I kidding.  I'm already doing schedules that are close to that anyhow.  Not that different.  My personal tour guide, Ruby, was amazing and an awesome helper!  All the kids took my email and I look forward to getting all their emails!

The kids spoke fantastic English that could put any American student to shame.  Many of them had spent time overseas studying English in England, Ireland, Canada and America.  They were super excited to meet us and have us in their schools.  The students were very respectful and eager to learn whatever it was that these forty American teachers were going to introduce to them.  As such a large group, the forty teachers were divided into groups of two and then seperated into different classrooms.  My good friend Regina and I were to teach in the same room.  Regina's lesson was, of course, on New York, which the kids enjoyed, but I've got to say they loved the Detroit lesson.  They knew Detroit was the Motor City and were familiar with the car companies, but were shocked to hear of the successes of our sports team, to learn that we had diversity in groups on Greektown, Mexicantown, Polish Hamtramck and Arab Dearborn, and even of our proximity to Canada, the Ambassador bridge, Renaissance building and the fact that people from Michigan use their right hand to point to were they are from.  That thrilled them! They were also surprised to learn about famous Michiganders like Madonna, Eminem, Kid Rock and Motown!  They also appreciated the great gifts from DHS, DHS pens and pencils and DHS stickers!

The rest of the day was small in comparison.  We attended a farewell ceremony in which I was selected to give a farewell speech, followed by our farewell dinner.  Tomorrow is our last day in Korea and I'm going to try and plan to get back to the DMZ.  Think it can happen?  We'll see

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Buddhist Temples - Korea Day 13

Our group woke early to leave our hotel in Deagu and visit the Hae-In Temple before returning to Seoul. Visiting a temple is not an easy task and not one for the weak. The temples are all in the mountains, mainly because most of them were destroyed under the Japanese occupation and only the mountainous remained or were rebuilt in those locations. Cities were off limits. For those temples that are in the mountains it is usually in a very seculed place and take strong hikers to reach them.

The name "hae-in," originally comes from the expression Hae-in-sam-mae in Hwaeomgyeong (Buddhist scripture), which means they truly enlightened world of Buddha and the naturally undefiled mind.   Hae-In Temple is most famous for the Tripitka Koreana (woodblocks containing the entire teachings of Buddha) housed there.  Two monks, Sunung and Ijong, built the temple during the early ninth century to devote themselves to studies of the Sutra.  The temple is one of the sambosachal (temples of three treasures) temples, along with Songgwang Temple and Tongdo Temple.  Hae-In Temple and the Tripitaka Koreana were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1995.

Iljumun, Daejeokgwangjeon and the Tripikata Koreana are recognized as world famous treasures.  Iljumun was the first gate that every sattva must pass through to become a Buddha and is considered as a representative work of ancient architecture.  Daejeokgwangjeon, the grand sanctuary, and the three-story stone pagoda in the yard exemplify the majestic appearance of the 1,000 year old temple.  Since the 23rd year of the Geryeo Dynasty (A.D. 1236), it took 16 years to finish the Tripitaka Koreana, the most famous national treasure of Hae-In Temple, which was made as a wish to overcome the national crisis caused by the Mongolia Invasion.

At the temple visitors can watch the monks (and other Buddhists) pray, chant, and even beat a ceremonial drum and gong to awaken the animals for spiritual awakening and prayer.  All visitors are welcome to stay in the temple guest house for sanctuary, and eat for free, which we did for lunch.  However, no talking is permitted during eating.  This provides for full concentration and reflection and meditation.  Everyone must consume all food that they put on their plate to prevent waste.  While I understand the latter (because clearer up my plate is never a problem), I just can't understand the no talking rule.  I believe (as part of my culture) that eating is a social activity and should be enjoyed.  To each his own!

After lunch we got back on the bus for three hours before stopping outside of Seoul to visit King Sejong the Great's tomb.  Its ironic because we started our first day in Seoul with a visit to Sejong's Statue in the city square and are now ending our tour at his tomb.  King Sejong is the Korean equivalent of Sulieman the Magnificent of the Ottoman Empire.  Sejong helped establish the Korean alphabet, educate the country, developed multiple codes or living commandments as well as a plethora of inventions to help Koreans improve their living standards.  It was interesting to see Koreans at the tomb commemorating Sejong in typical Buddhist fashion with clasped hands, bowing and falling to the floor in a more respectful bow.

An additional two hour drive and we were back in Seoul...time to get into teaching mode for our Korean classes that we will be teaching tomorrow.

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%2013/

Saturday, July 7, 2012

A Day in A Korean Village - Day 12

Want to know how Koreans lived early on in their history? Well fear not, because there are actually many villages in South Korea that still carry out traditional values and live as their ancestors would have for more than 500 years. The Yang Dong Village is one of them. In this village, there is still a family lineage that is honored and a head family member who is the leader or almost "king," of the village. We met that man today, Mr. Lee. When Mr. Lee walks into the assembly hall of his home (the big living room in the pictures that doesn't have any doors) you stand up and then wait for him to sit down. When he sits, you bow, ensuring that your head is bowing lower than his. You must sit crossed legged or Indian style while he talks. We were forbidden to show our feet to him, which meant we had to wear socks, and no one could out stretch their legs toward our host who graciously had his family bring us sliced up watermelon and homemade cherry tea. This is a Confucian tradition that the host must do only for people who have traveled great distances to visit them. I'd say a 14 hour plane flight, followed by a 6 hour bus ride down to the village constitutes as "great distance," and apparently so does Mr. Lee.

The village itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site and for many reasons.  First, it is one of the oldest villages in Korea that still lives in traditional Korean homes, students attend old style Confucian schools and the village customs are still heavily emphasized.  Second, this area needs to be protected.  Its gorgeous.  Sitting Indian style for two hours really gave me a chance to appreciate the beauty of this area.  High in the mountains sitting in an open living space on a wood floor over looking the village was truely scenic.  It really reminded me a lot of Slovakia.  I have to admit that although my mom's family is from a very remote village that my cousins call the "end of the world," I miss it.  Who would have thought that sitting at a UNESCO site in Korea would have reminded me of that.  After being hosted by Mr. Lee, we had a chance to meet his very charming 10 year old son, who essentially is the crowned prince to the village.  It was hilarious to watch this kid bow to us with such respect.  His English was amazing, by the way, considering that his father only spoke Korean and our professor had to translate the entire time.  Our visit to the village was cut short by lunch and then a trip to one of the few Confucian schools still in the area and a site that is also recognized by UNESCO.

From there it was a bus ride to our fourth new hotel in just five days, in Ulsan, the third largest city in Korea.

I'm now almost caught up on my homework.  Off to work I go.

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%2012/

Friday, July 6, 2012

Korea Day 11 - More Rain

Today was interesting and here are the major events. What was most difficult it has been the weather. The constant rain cannot slow us down, but its annoying. We are tired to walking in the rain even with all the protection from our rain gear we are still soaked. We stink like rain and hate it.

Anyways, I woke up early to study and do some homework for my online class that I am severely behind in and have not managed to catch up on yet.  Good thing the assignment is not due until Sunday night.  We then traveled as a group to the Hyundai Heavy Complex Industry.  Hyundai, as we know in the US, is a Korean car company, but around the world Hyundai is much more.  In fact, as I found out today, Hyundai is the Korean equivalent to Henry Ford in Michigan.  They actually worked together for a while too.  Hyundai was founded by Chung Ju-yung who actually came from North Korea and worked early on a rice delivery boy, then became the owner and soon had enough money to begin building an empire within Korea as a ship building company set up in Gjeong-Ju, South Korea (consider this Dearborn, Michigan).  It is now one of the largest car, ship building and machine building company in the world. Hyundai employees are treated very well, according to the company.  They received free housing, free healthcare, their children get free education up to college, and free entertainment.  It was amazing to see these massive ships being built.  I guess for other people it was a completely new experience.  It was for me, but coming from the Motor City capital of the world, I could totally relate to it.  I got it, let's just say that.

The major portion of the day was spent visiting major Buddhist temples within the Gyeong-Ju area.  Particularly, Seokguram Grotto and Bul-Guk Temple.  The grotto is a cave temple on Mount Tohamsan around 751 AD as a granite sanctuary for traders who wanted to protect their goods.  I apologize for only having pictures from the outside of the temple that we hiked to, but as is the case in most religious sites, pictures are not allowed inside temples or of the Buddha and his worshippers.  Plus, who would want to be photographed while praying...that's annoying so I total respect that.

The Bul-Guk Temple was originally built in 528 AD and literally means Buddha land.  It, like many sites in Korea, was destroyed by the Japanese in the 1500s and later rebuilt in the 1970s.  Combined of many stone terraces and temple courts, the main court has 33 steps that lead to the temple and represent the Buddhist believes in the 33 heavens.  Inside the temples Buddhist monks, sometimes male and female, volunteer to maintain the grounds, clean up prayers and visitors and meditate.  Religion, is one of my favorite topics to discuss, either amongst friends, colleagues and even my students.  Its intriguing to see how people's views of religion emphasize their daily actions and serve as a foundation for their optimism or demise.  One aspect that I struggle with though are the eastern Asian religions of Hinduism, Confucianism, and Buddhism. This is probably because of my lack of familiarity with these religions.  To be honest, I do not know many people from these backgrounds and this has made it challenging to discuss believes and realy develop a strong understanding of the religions.

While I understand the basic aspects of these religion I still find it difficult to connect to. I'm frustrated by this and am embarrassed by my ignorance because I know what its like when people do not understand your religion and maintain those stereotypes.  Its not fun nor fair.  I've tried to overcome my ignorance with this trip to Korea, but I find that I am still just as confused.  Partly, because these religions intersect at so many different levels that its difficult to keep them straight.

On a lighter note, my new good friend Sam and Lynda just told me that I speak with an accent.  I was intrigued by this because while I already knew my English to be or poor standards I didn't think I had an accent.  Apparently, I sound very Midwestern, but specifically very Michigander...whatever that means?!?!?!  In Lynda's words, "you sound like my cousins who live in Michigan."  Ummm...ok.  I actually like the fact that I have this accent.  Unlike other trips that I've taken where everyone is from Michigan, on this trip, I'm the only one.  I even get the funny looks when I say I'm from Detroit.  Like they are all shocked that a woman would be from Detroit because they feel like I should be super buff or at least be packing.  I've never thought I needed protection in Detroit, but obviously our city's reputation precedes me.  That's fine.  I'm so darn proud to be from Detroit.  That's my city.  My home and I'm counting the day until I get back. I'll trade NYC or LA or any of those cities for Detroit any day of the week and am happy to be representing our state on this trip, but can't wait to get home!

Now off to do homework.

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20-%20Day%2011/

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Korea - Day 10



Our group's stay at the Cheongju area was short lived; just one night.  We woke early to travel by two buses to visit several key Buddhist temples and key sites to the largest kingdom in ancient Korea, the Silla Kingdom.  We visited Najung and Al-Young-Jung, the site of five kings and queens tombs from the Silla Dynasty.  We had a chance to learn about how the tombs were made, how the bodies were buried, and then travel inside the only one that is open to the public, known as the "heavenly horse tomb," in Cheon-Ma-Chong.  The tombs can best be described as giant ant hills.  They are great accomplishments for the Korean people, but small in comparison to the Great Pyramids of Giza.  Plus, its tough to top the DMZ, even for dead kings and queens.

Speaking of the DMZ...there was a recent clip of the DMZ on TV today.  Apparently a South Korean man went to China and then went to North Korea without permission from the South.  This is illegal under South Korea law.  After a month in the north where he did site seeing and visited the grave of Kim Il Sung the south then found out.  When asked why he went he said it was to bring attention to reunification.  The man was forced to return to the south...through the DMZ!  The action was caught on video.  He was arrested immediately and will likely spend a long time in jail.  He is not seen as a hero in North Korea and a traitor in the south! Wow! All this action only two days after I was there!!!

Here's the article:
http://hosted2.ap.org/OREUG/86053d8662944f7698388c63189f97c6/Article_2012-07-05-Koreas-Activist/id-c04e7d6570ee40c6a5248179f38c09ee

Back to today's adventures...we then visited the Gyeongju National Museum where we spent almost 2 1/2 hours listening to our tour guide literally move through the Korean timeline.  Seriously, the woman was an ancient encyclopedia Britannica.  At some point though, like after 90 minutes, I just get museum fatigue and can't concentrate anymore.  My ADD is out of control and so then I just zone out, which is pretty much what happened.

Finally, we visited the Bun Hwang Sa Buddhist Temple and the Hwang Ryong Sa Teo site for the Royal Capital of the Silla Kingdom.  The most unfortunate part of the day was the rain that was literally pouring.  Its definitely monsoon season here in Korea and that made hiking miserable.

What helped change our mood?  Ha! The luxurious Hilton Hotel in Geonju!  The pictures speak for themselves.  That's it for now.  I need to sleep now!

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%2010/

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Korea Day 9 - The Country Side Travel

After more than a week in Korea the highlight thus far has been the DMZ, but that does not mean that it is the only attraction in South Korea, which we soon found out today. We checked out of our hotel in Seoul and headed on a four hour drive across the South Korean country to several different locations. The drive was broken up by the multiple stops that we took to visit items extremely important to Korean history and were escorted by the wonderfully talented Mark Peterson, BYU professor and expert of Korean studies.


After two hours of driving, and reading the first two chapters for my homework assignment, I was able to actually listen to my iPod.  This is a moment that cannot be under appreciated, to coin my own phrase.  Karaoke in Korea is popular, so popular in fact, that there are karaoke businesses set up where friends can rent rooms and just sing the night away.  In our hotel in Seoul, guests sang karaoke every night in the restaurant across from the lobby.  I know because the only place in the hotel with wifi was the lobby, so all of the teachers in our group crowded down there every night suck all the wifi in Korea.  However, karaoke is simply not the same as listening to music on your iPod.  That is an of itself was refreshing.

The iPod experience was cut short by our first stop at the Tomb of King Muryeong.  This place can best be described as the Asian version of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, with hidden royal tombs in the mountain side.  The only difference is that there is no sand, no heat, no massive chambers, and no huge treasure find...so really nothing like the Valley of the Kings in Egypt.  This only goes to show you that the ancient Egyptians, well, they knew how to do funerals and burials in preparation for the afterlife.  Asians...they're working on it.  King Muryeong is important to Korea history because he enhanced national prestige overseas by preserving public peace and strengthening national power during his 23 year reign from 501-523 A.D.

After a quick stop to the tombs we continued on to the Gongju National Museum to view artifacts from the tombs and additional items relevant to ancient Korean history predominately from the Baekje era.  I hope that the people following my blog appreciate the fact that I'm writing Asian names and places, which is extremely difficult.  It is literally taking all the brain cell energy that I have to keep this straight, and I'm sure all of it will fall out of my head by the time I return to the States.

The coolest part of the day was visiting the Early Printing Museum in Cheongju.  So here are the history facts.  Many of you know that the ancient Egyptians had papyrus that they used for paper.  Cool.  Except everything had to be hand written.  So for historians, the Egyptians win for having the first paper, blah, blah, blah, like 4,000 freaking years ago.  Printing, like mass printing, well you probably learned in Global history that Johannes Gutenberg was the one to invent the movable printing press that helped Martin Luther mass produce translated copies of the Bible and lead to a literacy revolution in the world.  If that's the version you learned, because it certain was the version I learned, then we all learned the story wrong. The German part at least.  While Gutenberg may have made a movable printing press, the first one was actually made at least, AT LEAST, 250 years before in Korea.  Yep, Koreans were using a wood and metal movable printing press well before the Germans had it.  How do we know?  We have documents and books by Buddhist and Confusian monks that include when, where and how the books and manuscripts were published.  The Koreans were not only mass printing, but also copyrighting their stuff!  That's nuts!  We have books that were published in Korea, using their printing press that date back to 1377 and say "volume II," which means there might be an earlier "volume I!"

Now for the real question...why don't we know about this and why isn't it taught correctly?  There really is not simple answer.  We'd need to change all the textbooks (there are a lot of textbooks...I haven't really taken the time to count, but I know there are a lot) and we'd need to re-educate all Global studies teachers, plus Gutenberg's press gets a lot of attention because of what it lead to... a religious revolution known as the Protestant Reformation, plus a literacy revolution around the globe.  The Koreans were ahead of their time, but couldn't impact the world the way Gutenberg did.  Safe to say, the world simply wasn't ready for what the Koreans had.

It was cool to be at the museum and see all the artifacts except for the actual book.  The Koreans don't have it.  Like much of ancient Egyptian artifacts a lot of it has been stolen.  The book "Jikji," was actually found by the French Ambassador to Korea in 1911.  He recognized its importance and high-jacked it with him back to France.  Snotty Europeans.  It currently sits in the French National Library.

The Printing Museum was not a waste though.  Although we could not see the original, we did get a chance to make our own paper and book in the same manner that would have been done by the Koreans back in the 1300s!  That's one of my favorite souviners of the trip thus far.

Ok...more travels tomorrow.  Happy 4th of July everyone!

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%209/

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Korea Day 6

Korea just got that much cooler. Today was our first day off! Our first day to roam around the town by ourselves. My friend Regina and I decided to head back to Insadong, a market that has tons of shopping. Its really not a place for locals, but more of a shopping bazaar where tourists can grab souvenirs, etc. To be honest, outside of the not so delightful Korean food, then next least appealing thing about Korea is its souvenirs...so people back home...I really had to use all of my creative brain cells to think of something cool and convince the Koreans to do what I wanted. Hopefully, you'll enjoy what I return with. It was easy bargaining with them. I don't see what's all the fuss with North Korea. Let me talk to them...I'm sure we can work things out...work my Egyptian Magic ; )


Regina and I then went to the Korean Prison Museum. This is basically like the Korean Alcatraz, but way, way worse. Essentially, Korea is surround by three major giants: Russia, Japan, and China. Four if you count the USA. That means that the odds of Korea remaining independent are slim to none, and historically, it hasn't done very well in the independce section. In fact, North Korea considers South Korea under occupation by the USA, which is one reason for why its trying so hard to liberate it. One country that Korea has had a miserable past with is Japan. Japan ruled with an iron fist, forcing many Koreans to be slaves, even sex slaves, and used them as their major resource for building their war machine in WWII. It would a little dangerous, but not entirely an exaggeration, to say that Korea was to Japan what Jews were to Germany. The Seoul Prison was meant to operate like a Japanese concentration camp to capture political prisoners and Koreans who fought for independence. Inside were were able to walk through gruesome chambers were the Japanese tortured Koreans with different tools and weapons and even primitive water boarding techniques. We walked through the execution chambers, saw where many Koreans were put to death, their prison cells, food hall, factories, and even the tunnel where the Japanese dragged executed Koreans outside the prison (almost in the same way that Germans would try to use ovens to destroy evidence of the body count. For Koreans, this prison is a haunting reminder of how hard they have really had to work at independence, one that they feel is still not complete (aka North Korea). It also is a reminder of the danger that the Japanese have already demonstrated and one that Koreans are not about to relive.

After visiting the prison, Regina and I returned to our hotel to pick up other fellowship friends to head out for a K-League (Korean League) Soccer game at the World Cup Stadium, which Seoul hosted in 2002. The stadium is state of the art and simply gorgeous. While soccer is a popular sport in Korea, the stadium has not sold out a single game since the world cup. This is because soccer is only the second most popular sport in Korea, the first is baseball (I told you this place is weird. Korea and I mix about as well as oil and water). FC Seoul, the home team, managed to defeat the visiting team with a nail biting game that ended in a 3-2 victory, thus securing FC Seoul's position in first place.
With the night still young and happiness over the victory still fresh in our minds we decided it was time for dinner (any except Korean) and went to a Thai place. It was seriously the best Thai I've ever had. Now its time for me to get to bed...need to get up at 4 am to watch the Euro Cup final between Spain and Italy...viva Espana!

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%206/

Korea Day 8 - DMZ & North Korea

This is by far the best July 3rd I've ever had! It was epic and there is simply no other way to describe it. So here's the experience. We were taken early in the morning to several key points that lead to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea. The first was the Philippine Memorial, recognizing the efforts of the Filipinos who fought to help South Korea during the Korean War, which I have to emphasize is still on-going. The North and South Koreans only signed an armistice agreement as of 1953. There is no peace agreement between them. That means that for all purposes they are still at war and boy can you feel it. They are the only divided country in the world.


Our second stop was to the Unification Park. This park was built in Bongseo-ri, Paju-eup, in June 1973 to pay tribute to the soldiers who fought in the defense of the South during the Korean War, as well as to pray for unification. It is situated near Munsan station where the UN War Correspondent Center was located during the armistice talks. A monument rests within the park that pays tribute to the 18 Korean and foreign war correspondents who died trying to share their, often tragic, stories of the war. They include Han Gyu-ho of the Seoul Shinmun as well as journalists from the U.S. (10 people), Britain (4 people), France (2 people) and the Philippines (1 person). There is also a tower built to commemorate the loyalty and courage of 10 brave soldiers who sacrificed themselves in a bomb attack after a bloody struggle, a memorial tower dedicated to anticommunist guerilla units from the Gaema Plateau, and a statue of Colonel Lee Yu-jung and Second Lieutenant Kim Man-sul.

After visiting the Unification Park our third stop was at Imjingak Park. The closest thing most South Koreans can get to the DMZ without special permission from the government, the Imjingak is a park overlooking the Imjingang River - literally a shrine to national division. Major landmarks include an altar where families originally from the North come to perform ancestral rites (usually performed in one’s ancestral hometown) on the Korean holidays since they cannot visit them and honestly do not know if they are still alive.  There is also a Freedom Bridge that was initially the only rail line that transported people and goods between the two sides pre-war.  When the war broke out one rain like was destroyed and the last train to the south was riddled with bullet holes and is not displayed by the bridge.  We also had a chance to visit the "Bridge of No Return."  Built to allow for the return of POWs, it was the only chanc for POWs to switch sides, but was later closed becasue of a Tree and Axe Massacre.  The story goes that one US solider was watching Checkpoint 3 and could not see Checkpoint 4 by the bridge becaseu of a large tree so the US military ordered that it be cut down.  Although the tree was on South Korean soil the North Koreans did not like this and began to attack the troops attempting to cut the tree down, at one point using an axe to attack American and South Korea forces.  Several were killed and the tree remained.  Eventually the tree was completely torn down and , the hastily constructed bridge where some 130,000 South Korean and Allied POWs crossed to return home at the end of the Korean War. You may also purchase North Korean goods or eat North Korean food at some of the park’s shops and restaurants.  This was crazy and we had not even visited the DMZ.

After lunch we then got to the main coure: the DMZ and the border between North and South Korea.  The first stop on the tour was Camp Bonifas (named after a US soldier who was axed to death in the JSA in 1974), a large South Korean military installation that serves as the base camp of the United Nations Command Security Force-Joint Security Area. For most of post-Korean War history, the southern side of the JSA was jointly patrolled, but since 2004, it has been entrusted exclusively to the South Koreans (although a small contingent of Western, mostly American, troops remain). At the camp, we were briefed by a US officer briefed on the history and regulations of the JSA.

About 400 meters past Camp Bonifas, you come to a double-barbed wire fence manned by South Korean soldiers. This fence, which continues almost unbroken for the entire breadth of the Korean Peninsula, marks the start of the DMZ. Pass the fence, and it’s like entering a completely different planet. We had our passports checked at two key points, were given special guest IDs, and armored car, an Armed US officer on the bus and strict camera rules.  Essentially we were allowed to take pictures of anything North Korean, but not anything from the South Side.  I was surprised to hear that the North Koreans allow tours, usually Chinese, to visit the DMZ as well.  I wonder if the North Korean visitors are allowed to take pictures of the south but not the north.  If so then what's the point of the restrictions?  Anways, inside the DMZ, I guess I was expecting a WWI no-mans land and was surprised to find vegetation growing lush and, outside the bus, the scenery is eerily peaceful and, frankly, spooky. Some of the land is cultivated by the villagers of Daeseong-dong, the only civilian habitation in the southern half of the DMZ (villagers are given more than $80,000 USD per year and are exempt from taxation and military service). But by and large, the only things that move are the birds - protected from human activity for a half century, the DMZ has become a habitat for many species of wild birds.  It is also a strick "no-fly zone," except for the birds.

The Joint Security Area itself is iconic, especially if you’ve seen Park Chan-wook’s 2000 film, “JSA," or "Inside: North Korea." This small cluster of buildings - some impressive, some humble - was born in 1953 following the signing of the Armistice Agreement (“ending” the Korean War) in the actual village of Panmunjeom, which was located about 800 meters to the north but has since disappeared. The JSA - widely referred to as “Truce Village” - was used for regular meetings between North Korean and UN military officials (the Military Armistice Committee, or MAC) to supervise the implementation of the armistice. It is now used primarily for inter-Korean meetings.

The JSA is split down the middle by the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), the actual “border” between North and South Korea. On the southern side are the impressive Freedom House and Peace House, which aside from being splendid pieces of modern Korean architecture, are also used for inter-Korean meetings. On the northern side of the MDL is the Panmungak, a gray Stalinist structure which, our guides pointed out, is probably smaller than it actually appears. Rumor is that the South Koreans built a beautiful 3 story Freedom House on their side of the border after the North Koreans built a 2 story Welcome house on their side of the DMZ.  Apparently the North Koreans were insutled by this and so they added a third floor.  Soldiers from both sides stare down visitors and each other. Between the two borders is the sky-blue MAC building built in the 60s, where with a guide, you may briefly cross over into North Korean territory.  Ok...guess what.....I DID!  Holy shish kabob!  I was in North Korea.  Only South Korean soldiers were present inside the building, but we did see a Communist solider staring us down on the other side with binoculars.  Oh wow, I'm still in awe!!!  It was definitely tense and the South Koreans were very tense.  Wow.

Near the buildings is a highpoint called Checkpoint 3. From here, you get a sweeping vista of the DMZ. The tranquility of it all is unnerving. Who’d imagine that surrounding this beautiful stretch of untouched nature is one of the largest concentrations of military force in the history of man? In the near distance, in the North Korean Potemkin village of Kijong-dong, is home to the world’s tallest flag post (160 meters), flying the world’s largest flag. This was build after the South Koreans had built a flag pole of 100 meters so the north made one slightly taller.

The experience from this one day was the highlight of my trip.  I don't care what I see or do now or if I get sent back home tomorrow.  I got to go to the DMZ, meet and take pictures with American and South Korean soliders.  Wow!

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20-%20Day%208%20-%20DMZ/

Monday, July 2, 2012

Korea Day 7

Last day of lectures!!! While the lectures at the Korean University have been interesting, there are a couple key facts to keep in mind. First, I found that the professors, and Koreans in general, are perfectionists. If they don't know the answer they will not try to come up with some plausible explanation. This is both a relief and an annoyance, as the purpose of this tour was to get to know the Korean culture and perspectives on major issues. None of our professors in any of our ten lectures were willing to deviate from their data and interject even the slightest bit of commentary. Giving their opinion was something that they were clearly not used to. Second, apparently they already knew that Americans were an impatient people, one that were unwilling to wait for the completion of the lecture to answer questions, but instead interrupt the professor to ask questions. This is obviously a no-no in Asian tradition, but a rule that they knew we would break immediately and so thus they braced themselves for the annoyance that was to ensue. Third, and this is coming from someone who has immigrant parents from two different continents, is a committed multiculturalist, and who is, for lack of other words, familiar with people who do not speak English as a second language, Asians are not easy to understand. Even those who have spent the last fifteen years there, and essentially the better part of their lives, as was the case for most of our professors. It was still a challenge to comprehend them.


The most enjoyable part of the day was visiting a traditional Korean house, where shoes are removed prior to entry and socks must be worn.  There we were taught the Korean tea tradition, which as a girl from a large Middle Eastern background, and clearly someone who can drink tea in the heat of the summer, I thought I had mastered by now.  Obviously not.  The Korean tea ceremony is not a simply one to learn.  First, hot water is poured into a large pour.  The steaming hot water is then poured into five drinking cups.  Then more water is added to the large bowl. Green tea leaves are added to a kettle, which then has the water from the large bowl transferred to it.  Are you lost yet?  This is left to sit for two minutes...I mean exactly two minutes, to let the tea oxidize.  While the tea is getting its oxidation on, the water originally poured into the cups is now dumped in a second even larger bowl.  At this point one much throw their hands in the air out of frustration.  What is the point of all these bowls, pouring, dumping and repouring before a sip is taken?!?!?!?  The answer is simple.  Hot water is added to the cups to bring them to a warmer temperature and to prevent the tea from cooling off immediately upon being poured into the cup.  This also allows the tea to maintain more flavor.  Why so many bowls are needed is beyond me, but it works for them.  After two minutes the tea is ready to be poured, starting in traditional top left direction, moving to the right and then down to the next row.  Water is only pour half way in all the cups the first time, and the filled up going in the reverse order the second time.  This is a tradition that ensures everyone gets the same amount of tea.  Cups, as with all items in Korea, are passed using both hands, starting with the top left row of cups, moving right and then to the next row.  Very complicated process, but entertaining to watch my friends struggle with.  No thanks...I'll take a bag of Lipton any day.  Hell! I couldn't ran to Starbucks and grabbed a Caramel Macchiato and been back before the first round of tea was being served.

Tea was followed by a chance to try on traditional Korean clothing, which is very unique.  Colors, designs and shapes all help to symbolize professions, statues and wealth.  We used this learning experience to proceed to another house around the corner to make Korean stamps on Korea paper, which I'm told was used as bullet proof armor back in the day.  Somehow I'm not willing to test that theory.

Our last and final adventure came at dinner.  Dinner was on our own time tonight, and so my group of friends decided to venture to a part of town called Intaewon.  This is where American and other foreign troops were stations during much of the Korean War, and today is the most diverse section.  There are flags, plaques and restaurants that represent all the nations that were either stationed or have immigrated to Korea in such large numbers.  I was comforted to find a Czech Bistro, Egyptian Restaurant called Ali Baba's (so embarrassing) and tons of Turkish restaurants, as well as Brazilian, Jordanian, Russian, Polish, and every other nation possible...including the Greeks!  Yes...da ancient eh-civilization...da Greeks!  That's exactly where we chose to eat.  I admit, I was looking for comfort food and did not get it.  My mouth watered at the thought of a nice lamb gyro only to be disappointed that in Korea they use pork as its cheap.  Of course its cheap.  The damn thing eats mush, scraps, its own feces, and other pigs.  Its not meat! And not Greek! Ah well, this gives me an excuse to visit my beloved Greektown once more before Ramadan.  Not that I needed an excuse.  Instead I ate chicken kabobs, which, I'll be honest were good, but expensive.

Well...this show needs to stop for the moment as I have a big night ahead of me tomorrow.  The most anticipated moment of the trip... I get to go to the town that sits on the border of North and South Korea, Panmunjom.  This will be epic.

http://s685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/Mmerocky/Korea%20Day%207/